Domaine Gigou Jasnières Saint Jacques 1989

1989
Chenin Blanc
Domaine Gigou
$53.00

****Supplies limited. Minimum purchase of 6 bottles mix and match with other Direct wines from Gigou & must be ordered in multiples of 6. Ships directly from winery to you in a few weeks at rate of $8/btl on 6, $6/btl on at least 12. Must be ordered separately from wines not on Direct.****

 

Our Tasting Impressions

The first time I tried this wine was at the Gigou's kitchen table enjoying Sylvie’s chicken and white asparagus. Joël carried in some unlabeled, dirt-covered bottles and served this blind. Previously, the fabulous 2000 was the oldest vintage I’d had of this. I thought it was from 1998-2002. You cannot imagine the energy and purity of this wine. Enjoy it now or wait 30 or more years, the choice is yours.

 

About this wine

 

A VDLT exclusive from Joël’s private cellar.

 

Chenin Blanc from Gigou's most prized vineyard - Saint Jacques - planted around 1946. The soil is silex (flint & sand) limestone clay and tuffeau - porous, chalky limestone composed of bryozoan fossils (tiny aquatic invertebrates). Harvesting is by hand with yields of 50hl/ha.

 

Fermentation was in Chestnut barrels at low temperatures for 7-8 months using indigenous yeasts.  The wine stayed on fine lees for 7-8 months with bâtonnage in the same Chestnut barrels. Racking was done to stabilize.

 

 

About the grape

Chenin Blanc is one of the world's great wine grapes.  Possibly dating back a millenium, Chenin is notable for its intense acidity.  In fact, before the pronounced effects of climate change, cold years in the Loire produced underripe grapes and disastrous vintages.  Often vintners had to add sulphur to counteract the savage acidity.  Today, that does not happen much and Chenin can fully display its vivacious and glorious floral, hay and honey notes. Chenin is among the most flexible varieties for wine production.  It can be vinified dry, off-dry or sweet.  It also is capable of producing wines that can live and improve - seemingly - forever.

 

Suggested Glassware: Grassl Mineralité

Domaine Gigou

The Gigou family operates their quaint 13 hectares farm in the central northern reaches of the Loire Valley - not far Le Mans, home to the famed 24-hour auto road race.  Joël started the estate in 1974 along with his gracious wife Sylvie.  His son Ludovic now handles much of the management and his sister Dorothée has recently joined in the efforts.

Their vineyards lie in Jasnières (8ha) and Côteaux du Loir (5ha), two fairly obscure appellations that might have faded into oblivion if not for the fine wines and tireless promotion from this family.

The vineyards in Jasnières are planted to Chenin Blanc to produce all but one of their whites, including a sweet Chenin in vintages when botrytis (noble rot) occurs.  

Gamay and Pineau d'Aunis (and the Chenin for one white) is planted in Côteaux du Loir to produce their reds and rosé.  They also produce sparkling wines in all three colors that are not appellation specific.  The range of wines is extensive despite producing only about 40-50,000 bottles per year.  There are lots of old vines.

They farm without chemicals. They harvest 60% by hand and 40% by machine (for the white grapes with stems left intact).

Now the remarkable part, Ludovic told me they keep all their bottled wines in their cellar for at least one or two years.  I asked why they do this (wondering how a small estate can defer the revenue). He replied, The wine decides when it's ready.  In some cases, he would hold them back even longer, except they are often out of storage space.  Truly a portrait of a family whose prime concern is that the wines that bear their name are special.

 

VDLT is the only North American source for current vintages of Gigou’s wines.