ShadowBuck Syrah Viognier 2020

2020
Syrah
ShadowBuck

More Wines from ShadowBuck

$49.00

This is a pre-arrival offering that is expected in spring of 2026

 

Our tasting impressions

ShadowBuck does Côte Rôtie and no apologies necessary. The nose is all you would expect from that classic Rhône superstar - bacon fat, pepper and olives. But the volcanic soil's impact is also evident in its racy vitality.

 

This young wine is fleshy and vivacious. The pure, dark fruit is not very tannic but it is structured. So, aging will benefit it. There also is a smoky, chocolaty note (likely a result of the wildfires) that is by no means intrusive but provides an interesting underscore.

 

Overall, this an impressive and regal wine that offers a fascinating counterpoint to its Rhône muse.

 

About this wine

Syrah (93%) and Viognier (7%) is the classic formula for Côte Rôtie in France's Northern Rhône Valley, so Tom was happy to apply it given the similar climate in Dufur Valley. Both varieties were planted in Trystan Vineyard in 2014. The elevation is 1,250 feet, western facing at a 17% slope. The volcanic soil is Walla Walla Silt Loam.

 

Fruit is picked during early hours of the morning and kept cold until processing, where clusters are hand-sorted, de-stemmed and crushed. Syrah then receives pectolytic enzyme, a small dosage of sulfur, and sacrificial tannin. Then, for initial 48 hours before primary fermentation, Biodiva (Torulaspora delbrueckii), is used to both promote ester production for increased mouthfeel and roundness, and to outcompete any native yeast in Syrah. Followed by proper primary fermentation between 75- 85°F with Lalvin BM 4x4 yeast for its high anthocyanin stabilization, fruit production and high fermentation kinetics, emphasizing dark black fruit and spiced varietal characteristics exhibited of Syrah.

 

The Viognier is fermented separately between 65-75°F with Zymaflore X16 yeast for its linear and quick fermentation kinetics, and high production of volatile esters. Both varieties are fermented to complete dryness and pressed in two press fractions and kept for later organoleptic assessment. Aged separately sur lee for 38 months in 100% neutral oak (Premium Wine Cask). 1,137 bottles produced.

 

 

About the grape

Syrah is the sixth most planted grape worldwide.  It thrives in a dry climate and soil that enable deep root penetration.  The grapes, small and dark-skinned, are high in acid and tannins. 

 

Viognier is a relatively low acid, higher alcohol grape that can provide a full wine with delicate flavors. Usually very floral and often displays tropical fruit flavors.

 

About the vintage

Here are Tom's notes: The 2020 growing season in The Dalles was defined by early variability and late-season disruption. Spring conditions led to uneven fruit set and reduced yields, while summer progressed with generally moderate heat and steady ripening. Near harvest, widespread wildfire smoke forced rapid picking decisions and limited overall production. Where fruit was harvested prior to heavy smoke exposure, wines show focused ripeness, preserved acidity, and restrained tannin, reflecting both the challenges and select successes of the vintage.

ShadowBuck

ShadowBuck is the first off-the-grid winery in the Pacific Northwest. In 2007, Tom Peters acquired a 500 acre property in Oregon’s Dufur Valley that was abandoned as a dry land wheat farm almost a half century prior. Over several years, he converted the barren land to support 2 vineyards. All the buildings on the land and the irrigation system are solar-powered.

 

The winery, accessible by dirt roads, is about 45 minutes from Hood River on the eastern slope of Mount Hood in a town known as The Dalles. This is DESERT with volcanic soil! It lies outside the nearest AVA’s of Columbia Valley and Columbia Gorge so, the wines are designated Oregon.

 

Each of the two vineyards in production is 20 acres. Trystan, planted in 2010 was first harvested 5 years later. Obsidian was planted in 2013 and harvested initially in 2017. 

 

Both vineyards  are managed organically within the application of nitrogenic compounds, sulfur exposure (high winds negating the need for fungal suppression), and cultivation practices. Drip irrigation from an on-site artisan well provides year-round water supplementation to vineyards during summers where average rainfall is noted to be around 12 inches annually.

 

Tom is ably assisted by cellarmaster Marty Clifford, who started at ShadowBuck out of high school, and Tom’s grandson Russell, who is adding Chemistry to his winemaking and viticultural degrees.

 

This is a great and unique story, made even better by the grass-fed livestock they are raising. Beef and lamb are sold at the winery. The sheep are in charge of weed control in the vineyards. But, of course, we wouldn’t be telling this story if the wines aren’t excellent. And kudos to Tom for aging his wines more than typical before release.

 

ShadowBuck produces about 6,000 cases per year from 12 varieties.