Our Tasting Impressions
Several years ago, Paris underwent a major restaurant transformation. Top young chefs stopped dreaming of Michelin stars and started opening quaint bistros focused on simple ingredients and great food. The Bistronomy movement was born. This is the vinous equivalent of that. Light but deep. The very old vines are on full display. The color is pale and rusty. The nose offers rustic, red fruit with a hint of char. Such depth and a smoky note adds real interest. The fine tannins are gradually integrating and the finish is long. A wine of enormous character that could improve for another 10 years.
About this wine
100% Pineau d'Aunis from 113-year old vines planted in limestone and clay soil that is organically farmed and produces just 30 hl/ha. Manually harvested grapes are traditionally macerated with malolactic fermentation for 3-4 weeks, then aged on fine lees for 6-7 months - all in tanks.
About the grape
Pineau d'Aunis is a dark skinned grape that is indigenous to the Central Loire Valley dating back to the middle ages. Royalty in France and England cherished it from the 13th to 15th centuries. It has a light color and mild pepper flavor that makes it popular for rosés in many regions but it also has a subtle complexity and low alcohol to produce interesting and uncommon reds.
On Your Table
You name it. A terrific cheese wine. You can take this to your local bistro and enjoy it with lighter beef dishes as well. Serve at or just below cellar temperature.
The Gigou family operates their quaint farm in the central northern reaches of the Loire Valley - not far from Le Mans, home to the famed 24-hour auto road race. Joël, who is credited with saving the appellation of Jasnières, started the estate in 1974 along with his gracious wife Sylvie. His son Ludovic now handles much of the management and his daughter Dorothée runs the office.
Their 8 hectares of vineyards in Jasnières are planted to Chenin Blanc producing dry whites - and sweet in vintages when botrytis (noble rot) occurs. The entire appellation is only 108 hectares and the soil of mostly flint and tuffeau limestone is unique - giving Chenin from Jasnières distinct flavors. They farm without chemicals harvestIng 60% by hand and 40% by machine (stems left on for the Chenin).
Gamay and Pineau d'Aunis (and Chenin for one white) is planted in Côteaux du Loir (5ha) for their reds and rosé. They also produce sparkling wines in all three colors that are not appellation specific. The range of wines is extensive despite producing only about 40-50,000 bottles per year. There are lots of old vines.
Now the remarkable part, Ludovic told me they keep all their bottled wines in their cellar for at least one or two years. He replied, The wine decides when it's ready. In some cases, he would hold them back even longer, except they are often out of storage space. Truly a portrait of a family whose prime concern is that the wines that bear their name are special.
