Our tasting impressions
Quite dark in the glass, the spicy red fruit and moderate tannins combine with fullish body to offer an intense and gutsy wine. The old vines lend class and complexity. Another impressive and distinct red wine from this rising star of Timorasso.
About this wine
Named for Luca's nonna, this 100% Croatina is from a single, highly-regarded vineyard planted over 40 years ago.The east-facing plot at 350 meters elevation is farmed organically. The soil is clay and calcareous. Grapes are harvested by hand and selection is very strict.
Fermentation is 15 days in contact with the skins and with frequent pump-overs. The wine stays in tank for 6 months then into medium-toast barriques for 18 months.
About the grape
Croatina (aka Bonarda or Charbono) originated in Italy and could be the parent of Zinfandel & Primtivo. It is late-ripening and high-yielding. It’s mostly a blending grade with Corvina in Amarone. Not a lot of plantings remain as it’s been pulled up in favor of internationally popular grapes.
Vintage perspective
Luca says 2020 was an excellent and classical vintage due to generally lower temperatures.
Gianni Respighi, a gracious B&B and wine bar host in Tortona introduced me to young Luca Canevaro. Luca has assumed the daunting responsibility of leading the wine tenuta started by his great-grandfather about a century ago. Just as significantly, he decided to join in the crusade to resurrect and celebrate Timorasso (or Derthona, as it is traditionally known), one of Italy's truly great varieties.
Luca transformed the family business in 2016, supported by his brother Stefano (who has recently finished his oenology training) and guided by his father, Sandro. They farm 10 hectares of vineyards that are now certified organic. Production is expanding, but remains small at about 30,000 bottles per year.
Vineyards thrive at higher elevations (more direct sun, greater day/night temperature variance and enhanced drainage) and Canevaro has some of the highest vineyards in the DOC of Colli Tortonesi - up to 300-350 meters. This asset combined with respect for the land and tradition, passion and dedication has this small estate on a path to prominence. VDLT is pleased and proud to introduce this wonderful family's wines to the US.
