Our tasting impressions
The differences between the 2022 and its one-year older brother are subtle. This vintage is savory and very complex. It is actually more open and approachable right now than the '21. Another winner from Luca, who we have dubbed the Prince of Timorasso.
About this wine
100% Timorasso produced from the best grapes from a 20 year-old, organically farmed vineyard with western exposition. The soil is clay and calcareous and elevation is 300-350 meters. Harvesting is by hand followed by strict selection.
Luca does a soft pressing and then 12 months of battonage on the fine lees in steel tank. The wine is filtered before bottling (about 4,000/year).
About the grape
Timorasso, an ancient, thick-skinned grape, is almost exclusively grown in southeast Piedmont, in and around the town of Tortona (traditionally known as Derthona). It was rescued from extinction within the last few decades.
Timorasso fell on hard times because it is a challenging crop. The grapes in each cluster vary in size and thus, ripen at varying rates. Plus, the vines are not vigorous and are susceptible to disease. So why bother with a revival? Simply put, this crisply acidic, mineral-laden grape is capable of producing one of Italy's most interesting white wines and with good body.
The number of producers, just a few years ago, numbered about a couple of dozen. Now it is climbing rapidly. Several high-profile Barolo producers are now buying vineyards or grapes.
Vintage perspective
2022 had less rain in June and July than the prior year. Some storms at the end of August allowed the grapes to ripen very well. Luca considers it an excellent year whose wines should be ready to go sooner.
Gianni Respighi, a gracious B&B and wine bar host in Tortona introduced me to young Luca Canevaro. Luca has assumed the daunting responsibility of leading the wine tenuta started by his great-grandfather about a century ago. Just as significantly, he decided to join in the crusade to resurrect and celebrate Timorasso (or Derthona, as it is traditionally known), one of Italy's truly great varieties.
Luca transformed the family business in 2016, supported by his brother Stefano (who has recently finished his oenology training) and guided by his father, Sandro. They farm 10 hectares of vineyards that are now certified organic. Production is expanding, but remains small at about 30,000 bottles per year.
Vineyards thrive at higher elevations (more direct sun, greater day/night temperature variance and enhanced drainage) and Canevaro has some of the highest vineyards in the DOC of Colli Tortonesi - up to 300-350 meters. This asset combined with respect for the land and tradition, passion and dedication has this small estate on a path to prominence. VDLT is pleased and proud to introduce this wonderful family's wines to the US.
