Expected Spring 2024
Our tasting impressions
Luca's Timorasso seems to improve year after year. Everyone who tastes it is bowled over. They are amazed that a wine with this much vibrancy and mineral flavors can also have so much body. This is why so many pundits think this could be Italy's greatest white wine. The 2021 is deeply expressive. It seems like it wants to be creamy but the acidity balances it out beautifully. Enjoy it now for its joyous fruit and structure. But, do put some away. This should develop into an outstanding mature Derthona.
About this wine
100% Timorasso produced from the best grapes from a 20 year-old, organically farmed vineyard with western exposition. The soil is clay and calcareous and elevation is 300-350 meters. Harvesting is by hand followed by strict selection.
Luca does a soft pressing and then 12 months of battonage on the fine lees in steel tank. The wine is filtered before bottling (about 4,000/year).
About the grape
Timorasso, an ancient, thick-skinned grape, is almost exclusively grown in southeast Piedmont, in and around the town of Tortona (traditionally known as Derthona). It was rescued from extinction within the last few decades.
Timorasso fell on hard times because it is a challenging crop. The grapes in each cluster vary in size and thus, ripen at varying rates. Plus, the vines are not vigorous and are susceptible to disease. So why bother with a revival? Simply put, this crisply acidic, mineral-laden grape is capable of producing one of Italy's most interesting white wines and with good body.
The number of producers, just a few years ago, numbered about a couple of dozen. Now it is climbing rapidly. Several high-profile Barolo producers are now buying vineyards or grapes.
Luca's vintage perspective
The summer of 2021 was hot but fortunately, rain was plentiful. Overall, Luca considers it an excellent vintage and an excellent candidate for aging in the cellar.
Gianni Respighi, a gracious B&B and wine bar host in Tortona introduced me to young Luca Canevaro. Luca has assumed the daunting responsibility of leading the wine tenuta started by his great-grandfather about a century ago. Just as significantly, he decided to join in the crusade to resurrect and celebrate Timorasso (or Derthona, as it is traditionally known), one of Italy's truly great varieties.
Luca transformed the family business in 2016, supported by his brother Stefano (who has recently finished his oenology training) and guided by his father, Sandro. They farm 10 hectares of vineyards that are now certified organic. Production is expanding, but remains small at about 30,000 bottles per year.
Vineyards thrive at higher elevations (more direct sun, greater day/night temperature variance and enhanced drainage) and Canevaro has some of the highest vineyards in the DOC of Colli Tortonesi - up to 300-350 meters. This asset combined with respect for the land and tradition, passion and dedication has this small estate on a path to prominence. VDLT is pleased and proud to introduce this wonderful family's wines to the US.
