Our tasting impressions
In a year, when the only hurdle to making great Champagne was low acidity levels for Chardonnay, Dubois has an edge. They blocked the malolactic fermentation in 70% of the yield. In recent vintages, they allowed as much as half the fruit to undergo malolactic. Their decision was wise as evident in the brightness, energy and edge in the resulting wine. Indeed, this 2018 Blanc de Blancs is gorgeous with intense and long mineral and citrus flavors with a hint of butteriness. One sip demands another and there is no doubt that one is drinking Grand Cru Champagne.
About this wine
100% Chardonnay from (in this vintage) one select Grand Cru plot that was planted in the 1960's in clay soil. Harvesting began on August 28 and ended on September 6. Vinified in steel tank with malolactic fermentation allowed for only 30% of the wine. Aged about 5 years. Bottled after a light filtration. Disgorged April 2024 with a dosage of 4.2g/L. Production is 8,000 bottles.
About the grape
Chardonnay is the most popular white wine variety in the the US. Winemakers love the green-skinned grape as well because it’s so easy to grow and adaptive to many different production techniques. Grown everywhere, Chardonnay’s greatest expressions are widely believed to come from Burgundy, where it is believed to have originated. Chablis, in Northern Burgundy and Champagne also offer superlative examples of Chardonnay.
About the vintage
Nina summed up the 2018 vintage in one word: "SPECIAL". From a winemaker's perspective, that's understandable. It was a welcome trifecta after a challenging 2017. First, it was a virtually stress-free year. The biggest issue was if the Chardonnay would develop enough acidity in the high temperatures. Fortunately, there was frequent enough rain to offset the heat. Second, the crop was abundant. And third, the quality was exceptional. Some winemakers noted that they had never seen a year like this.
On your table
Crab or lobster in black bean sauce followed by a triple cream cheese would make for an indulgent and memorable evening. This wine can work with rich, creamy foods and has enough acidic energy to handle big flavors. Serve at or just below cellar temperature and we suggest a white wine glass or tulip rather than a flute.
The roots of this Grower Champagne estate dates back to 1920. Hervé's grandfather Paul was in the business of transporting wine to the big Champagne houses by horse. He bought land in Avize in order to feed and raise the horses and this land eventually was designated Grand Cru vineyards. A decade later, he developed the property to focus on wine production.
In 1981, Hervé began bottling wine under his own name. His daughter, Nina has been working with him since 2012.
The 6.3ha estate in the Côte des Blancs near Épernary is 63% Chardonnay - 3.5ha are Grand Cru from Avize in the Côte de Blancs and a half ha of 1er Cru in Montagne de Reims. The estate also comprises 1.5ha Pinot Meunier and .8ha Pinot Noir from the Vallée de la Marne.
Thirty-eight years ago, Hervé was among the pioneers who began stemming the malolactic fermentation process in his Chardonnay the enduring malic acid made his wine fresher, livelier and more transparent of the terroir. Typically, they do this with half of their Chardonnay production.
They have no desires to grow, to be famous or wealthy from their work. These are truly artisan winemakers. Their only goal is to produce the best Champagne they can - Champagne that is deeply reflective of the land and people who work it.