Our tasting impressions
Quite an uncommon white, indeed. The predominance of Fiano immeidatley makes this a bigger and more serious wine than the Vermentino (not that we don't love the latter). It's intensely floral, nutty and melon-like on the nose. The precision and concentration of flavors are impressive. There's some lushness and vanilla from the oak that is balanced by strong minerality. Very long on the finish. The provocative texture suggests skin contact, but instead, it is the fine lees. It needs some time to integrate but already it's very impressive!
About this wine
Two-thirds Fiano and 1/3 Vermentino from specific rows (from 38c to 47c for the Fiano and 33c to 37c for the Vermentino) and the best grapes. All are from the Campo al Pino vineyard, whose vines grow on magmatic-volcanic soil. The varieties are vinified separately. Fermentation with selected yeasts is in barriques, where the wine stays for 10 months on fine lees. After 8 months in bottle, it is released.
About the grape
Fiano is best known for producing Fiano di Avellino in the volcanic soil of Campania. It is a low yielding grape whose character is highly dependent on terroir. Resulting wines can range from angular and mineral-driven to nutty and rich. The best wines are capable of long and productive aging.
Vermentino contributes acidity, aromatics and salinity.
Gianni's perspective on the vintage
2019 was an atypical year with an unusually warm autumn and a rainy and very cold winter. The budding started the second week of April after a return of cold weather. The spring was characterized by considerable precipitation and sun. The temperature was always under the seasonal average.
The summer had average temperatures. This, combined with a good water supply – accumulated during winter and spring – and occasional rains during July and August, helped the vines "catch up" and develop well. The late summer had a good variation between day and night temperatures. Ultimately, the grapes were able to reach perfect phenolic maturation and the harvest began 15 days early than usual.
Suggested Glassware: Grassl Liberté
A few of the wines from this estate are labelled Sator. In Latin, this means one who plants from the minor Roman god of agriculture. It features in the famous, yet mysterious, Sator Square.
There is nothing mysterious about Gianni Moscardini's azienda in the village of Pomaia in the northern Tuscan Maremma. This is the west coast, near Pisa. The Moscardini family has owned this land for 2 centuries but Gianni was the first to plant vines in its varied soils in 2008.
Production is 50,000 bottles annually from 13ha at an elevation of about 180m. The vines are trained in the Guyot system. They make DOC Montescudaio from grapes like Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Merlot as well as an array of Toscana IGT from Italian varieties not necessarily associated with Tuscany. All of the varieties are planted in at least 2 plots - each with a different soil composition.
Gianni is an agronimist and his wife Mari is a plant biologist. Together, they have deeply studied the soils and terroir of their land to determine the best nature and approach to plantings. Their credo is to produce wines that fit seamlessly with the land in which they are planted, which is why they vinify the grapes from each plot separately prior to blending.