Our tasting impressions
Quite possibly the single greatest current release wine we have ever tasted from this remarkable Cantine. The note from our initial tasting in the Innocenti cellar is one word: STUPENDOUS! It has power and precision; class and character; depth and...deliciosity!? Uno Classico. It's enjoyable now but oh my, there is so much more in store for those with the time and patience to cellar this beauty.
About this wine
IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica. Technically, it is the humblest designation for Italian wines. In Tuscany, IGT was in the spotlight when producers, who were railing against the constraints of the DOC system, introduced Super Tuscans.
Named for an eastern-facing single vineyard in Montefollonico, this Rosso Toscano is made only in the best vintages and uses Innocenti's best hand-harvested Sangiovese grapes from a single vineyard (named Acerone) planted in the 1940's directly behind the farmhouse in which Vittorio grew up. The elevation is about 350 meters and the soil is clay. It is the only wine they make entirely from Sangiovese and only in the best vintages.
The grapes are de-stemmed (Innocenti considers Sangiovese tannins too green to do whole cluster) and gently crushed. Fermentation is with natural yeasts and maceration on the skins lasts 15 days. They perform délestage (draining the wine off the must and then gently pumping it back over. The caps are punched down.
Aged in old oak barrels for 5 years. It is bottled with a wide-grain filter and left to rest in the cellar a few more years prior to release. It is Vittorio's favorite among his wines.
About the grape
Sangiovese is the most planted grape in Italy and is the dominant grape throughout the central part of the country. There are many variants and even different names like Prugnolo Gentile, Brunello, Sangioveto and Morellino.
The grapes are dark and thick-skinned, slow-ripening, acidic and tannic. Like Pinot Noir, Sangiovese is heavily influenced by its terroir and similarly can be quite transparent in its differences from place to place.
Traditionally, Sangiovese-based wines (except in Montalcino) have other grapes mixed in, but in recent history there have been many successful wines produced from 100% Sangiovese. So, today, they are quite common.
About the vintage
2016 is a modern day classic vintage in Tuscany. A near perfect growing season that started slowly, warmed up nicely through the summer, and ended with a classic autumn. Ample warm days and cool nights produced a slightly reduced crop of wines that combine the richness of low-yields with the near perfect balance of mature tannins and bright acidity.
On your table
In its youth, Acerone is primed for hearty fare like grilled beef or hearty, rich pasta. The Innocentis suggest bistecca alla fiorentina or pappardelle al cinghiale (wild boar).
Vittorio Innocenti, a former philosophy teacher, started producing wine from his family's vineyards with the 1978 vintage from his 13th century cellar in Montefollonico. There are 32 hectares of vines in Montepulciano and Montefollonico but only 12 are planted with vineyards of up to 80 years old. The vista views from the back patio are incredible.
Today, Vittorio's son Tommaso and his partner Vincenza (aka Nancy) handle most of the work. But Vittorio is the keeper of the intellectual capital for all seven wines - in particular both versions of Vin Santo. In total, they produce about 35,000 bottles annually.
The Innocentis are a gracious, wonderful family. The Guru has known them longer than any other wine producer. He admires their intense commitment to producing the highest quality wines - taking as much pride in their most modest offering as they do in their top bottling.
VDLT is the only North American source for these extraordinary wines that are released much later than most top estates in the appellation. The Vino Nobile, Riserva and Acerone are capable of long and magnificent aging. In the photo to the right, we enjoyed a 1985, 1988 and 1993 at a recent lunch. Their freshness and vibrancy belied their ages.
