Drink Distinct: Wines & Producers

A Loire Red - Ultimate Bistro Wine

Greg Kramer

We love @Le Bon_Georges in Paris. No pretension or complication - just fresh, wonderful food and a wine list full of undiscovered talent. Proprietor Benoît Duval-Arnould is a wonderful host at this bistro where both carnivore and vegetarian alike can rejoice.

When we think of a table full of their wonderful food in such a quaint, timeless setting, there is a certain kind of wine you want to drink. Pineau d'Aunis from Domaine Gigou in Jasnières comes to mind.

The Family Gigou

Pineau d'Aunis, from the Loire Valley was prized by royalty in the middles ages. These days it's pretty unknown. But in the right hands, the dark-skinned, low alcohol grape can become a light, delicious, energetic, spicy red wine. And Domaine Gigou are the right hands.

They produce a few wines from this grape including the delightful and tasty sparkling, off-dry red called La Bulle Sarthoise that we offer.

Curiously, when I introduced all our other Gigou wines, I neglected to include one - the 2013 Côteaux du Loir L'Ancêtre. Call it the big brother to the 2014 Côteaux du Loir and not just because it's a year older. Its Pineau d'Aunis come from 113 year old vines, the yields are much lower and it vinifies longer.

I must have left it out because I could not find any notes about the wine other than the stupendous 2017 I tasted from barrel last spring. But I must have tasted it since we don't offer any wines we don't love. Hmmmmm.....

So mid afternoon today, we popped one (It must be 4:00 somewhere). Whoa, how can such a light, modest wine be so deep and complex? We still had some of the younger brother left from the other night and we tasted the two together again.

There are many similarities. Both are pure, comfortable, red-fruited and spicy. The '14 is lighter and the old vines is much deeper. I started imagining the myriad foods you could enjoy with these. The former is a fine aperitif and a lovely slurp. The latter demands more of your attention.

If there is a better red wine with cheese? I haven't had the pleasure.

We continue to encourage you to try new things. This is a good place to start. Many of you will be finding these in your Quarterly deliveries. I hope we have enough when you come back for more. Super wine, super prices and you can cellar them as well. Think of them as your cozy yet always satisfying neighborhood bistro.